HOW A MARKET CRASHES_____________________________________________
Now You Know
+Walter Winchell - bio
US Debt [wikipedia.org]
David Leonhardt of The New York Times
Sprouting business card
Kevin Mitnick's business card is a break-out lock picking kit
“Three or four years ago, when I spoke to people about LoveFilm.com, they’d look at me in a strange way and wonder what my night-time activities were on the internet!" Simon Calver, boss of DVD rental website LoveFilm.com, explains how he's shaken up the film industry and created a £70m business.
When Hiro Harjani stepped off the plane from India, he had no contacts, no cash and zero business experience. So how on earth did he build a global fashion brand with 5,000 international trade accounts, sales of £25m and celebrity endorsements from Lisa Snowden and Helen Mirren?
"We're recession proof. You need glasses – and we deliver them cheaper than anyone else. I'm bullish and so are our investors. We've just raised another £2.5m." James Murray Wells, the young entrepreneur behind Glasses Direct, explains why his start up caused chaos on the high street and how he's beating the downturn.
"I didn’t have the £2,000 to bottle the first set of oils, so I spent two weeks hand-bottling 9,600. My girlfriend did 500, even her ironing lady did 100!” With sensitive skin and no money, Will King set about competing against Gillette. Hear how the “King of Shaves” took on the industry giants and how he plans to build a £200m-turnover business by 2012.
"I didn’t have a lot of money. I didn’t own a house. And I didn’t have any savings. So I went to the bank and tried to convince them to give me a loan. They turned me down."
"We went from earning a big, fat corporate salary to cycling everywhere and living off beans on toast." Motorbike fanatic Sarah McVittie and self-confessed “mobile phone tart” Thomas Roberts tell us why they quit their high-flying City jobs to set up question-and-answer SMS service Texperts – and why they still don't flash the cash.
Hurricane Katrina survivors_Aug. 05
Jeremy Stoppelman_co-founder of Yelp.com_nytimes.comIn other words, consumers who once chose a business because it had the biggest ad in the Yellow Pages are now just as likely to make that choice on the basis of favorable reviews from customers. “Ads aren’t playing that role,” Mr. Stoppelman said. “We’re about getting that information out there.”
Mr. Sterling cites a study from the ad agency McCann-Erickson that showed that local advertising in all media was a $100 billion business in 2007. While the $100 billion total has stayed relatively stable, Mr. Sterling said the Internet’s share was growing rapidly.
Pete Blackshaw, an executive vice president with Nielsen Online Strategic Services, said Yelp had created a site where people’s reputations matter. As on eBay, where buyers and sellers build reputations based on their dealings with others, Yelpers can get a complete view of other reviewers’ activities. “That counts for a lot,” Mr. Blackshaw said. “It keeps the abuse to a minimum.”
Nov.6-08It's easy to see why there's so much interest. The U.N. says Russia has some 480,000 square miles of arable land—an area more than twice the size of France. That's 8% of the world's total, much of it highly fertile "black earth." But owing to decades of agricultural mismanagement, Russia accounts for less than 4% of global crop production and is a net food importer.
THE NEW AGE OF FRUGALITY by Steve Hamm (excerpt)
On a shady lane in New Hope, Pa., a quiet revolution in American culture may be taking shape. Here, a family of four lives in a white, colonial-style house in a manner that once would have been considered All-American but more recently has been seen as just plain weird: They're frugal.
Meet Leah Ingram, Bill Behre, and daughters Jane, 13, and Annie, 11. They walk most everywhere, they rarely eat out, they sometimes buy clothing at consignment shops, and they turn the lights off when they leave a room.
Theirs is no hard-luck-in-a-recession story. The Ingram-Behre family is solidly middle-class, fully employed, and not especially threatened by the conniptions gripping Wall Street. Behre, 43, is a dean at the College of New Jersey, while Ingram, 42, is a successful freelance writer and etiquette expert. They have no credit card debt.
That's now. A little more than a year ago, the family was ensnared in America's consume-at-all-costs culture. During the days of soaring home prices and easy credit, they took out a $101,000 home-equity loan on a previous house and spent lavishly on a lifestyle upgrade—going on three cruises in two years and taking the kids on annual pilgrimages to Disney World. "After 9/11 it became patriotic to shop, and we became as patriotic as anybody," laments Behre, sitting in the dining room after a meal of chicken stir-fry—washed down with tap water.
Ingram and Behre are harbingers of a dawning Age of Frugality. People who overconsumed during the past decade are now rejecting extravagant lifestyles. They're spending less, and more wisely. Some are getting their finances in order. Others are fearful of losing their jobs, shocked by investment losses, or hunkering down amid the general uncertainty.
The penny-pinching is already showing up in the numbers; this quarter could mark the first fall in personal consumption in 17 years. And with credit tight and Americans loaded down with $2.6 trillion in personal debt, consumer borrowing dropped in August, the first such contraction since 1991. Menzie D. Chinn, who teaches economics at the University of Wisconsin, figures consumers won't be in a position to spend freely for five years.
Which brings us to what John Maynard Keynes called the paradox of thrift. What's good for the individual, argued the famous economist, can ignite or deepen a recession. But that won't deter the newly thrifty. "I can't help the economy," says Kim Schultz, a resident of hard-hit Avoca, Mich., who with her husband, Jon, owes $40,000 in credit-card debt. "I've got to help myself." On the other hand, this newfound austerity could—emphasis on could—rewire Americans as savers rather than spenders. And that would help put the economy on a sounder footing over the long haul.
COSTCO'S ARTFUL DISCOUNTS by Jena McGregor (excerpt)
At Costco, where more than 29 million households pay $50 to $100 a year to shop, low prices aren't just a nice-to-have. They're a way of life. Not only does Costco's famously frugal CEO James D. Sinegal cap margins at a sacrosanct 14% on branded goods, he's constantly pushing his buyers to find creative ways to lower prices and add value while getting his managers to crank up their efficiency efforts. Besides the buy-in strategy, Costco has been redesigning product packaging to squeeze more bulky goods onto trucks and revamping processes for moving goods through its depots. Even small tweaks to its well-oiled operations can have a big impact. "If that stuff doesn't really turn you on," says Sinegal, "then you're in the wrong business."
Such tactics are keeping customers' shopping carts full—the $72 billion retailer's sales have been one of the only bright spots in today's brutal retail economy. But they've also been pinching profits. As commodities surged over the summer, Sinegal's call to hold the line on pricing helped prompt Costco to warn in July that its fourth-quarter earnings would be "well below" expectations. On Oct. 8, it announced quarterly net income of $398 million, slightly lower than Wall Street's revised expectations.
But to Sinegal, the short-term earnings pain is worth the potential for long-term market share gain. For one, holding prices low is the best way to protect profits: About 75% of Costco's operating earnings come directly from membership fees, and if prices rose too quickly, some members could flee. In addition, the 72-year-old warehouse club veteran knows that in this environment, Costco's reputation for bargain prices and surprise designer goods could inspire a new crop of warehouse chic devotees. "We should shine at a time like this," he says. "We have always believed that great companies build market share in really tough times."
What Sinegal isn't doing is wavering from the basic model that helped him and co-founder Jeffrey Brotman build Costco into a retail phenomenon. The Issaquah (Wash.)-based company's warehouse model relies on selling core items at rock-bottom prices while scooping up excess inventory from high-end brands. The here-today, gone-tomorrow nature of Costco products tends to foster carts full of impulse buys. The average store does $137 million in annual sales, a volume so high that Costco turns its inventory 11.9 times a year, meaning it often sells goods before it technically has to pay its suppliers. Combine that with high-income customers—the average Costco household makes upwards of $75,000—and "what they're doing is really high velocity retailing," says Boston Consulting Group Managing Director Michael Silverstein, who has studied Costco.
Even CEOs who'd rather not find their designer brands discounted in a warehouse are happy to say they shop there. "I think they have a terrific concept," says Eric Wiseman, CEO of VF Corp., which owns the North Face and 7 For All Mankind clothing lines. David Novak, CEO of YUM Brands, says he buys wine and cleaning equipment there. And QVC CEO Michael George is a proud card-carrying member of one of the first Seattle stores. "You don't just go there for bargains," says George. "You go there for the treasure hunt."
Lately, the loot in that treasure chest is getting even more high end. Over the last year, Versace dinnerware, Waterford crystal, and pastel girls' Lilly Pulitzer dresses have all made their way into Costco's stores, either through new direct selling agreements or diversions from distributors. As consumers cut back, Costco is finding more available inventory and fielding more calls from companies hungry to boost slumping sales. "I think their store will probably look like Saks pretty soon," says an executive at one popular high-end fashion brand. "Their ability to sell stuff is staggering."
"In a tough economy, the ability to change your assortment towards products that are selling more is a huge advantage," says Michael Clayman, a former buyer for Costco and the editor of trade publication Warehouse Club Focus. "If the item isn't a value anymore, or isn't generating the sales hurdles, it'll be deleted."Costco has even gotten vendors to redesign product packages to fit more items on a pallet, the wooden platforms it uses to ship and display its goods. Putting cashews into square containers instead of round ones will decrease the number of pallets shipped by 24,000 this year, cutting the number of trucks by 600. By reshaping everything from laundry detergent buckets to milk jugs, Costco has needed 200,000 fewer pallets a year overall.
Winmark, the Nasdaq-listed company that sold Cortese her Plato's Closet franchise, is a rarity in a scorched retail landscape: It's growing rapidly and making money. Sales at Plato's Closet outlets open more than a year were up 19.6% in August, vs. 1.7% for the industry as a whole. "I don't wish this economy on anyone," says John Morgan, Winmark's chief executive. "But we're going to make hay while the sun shines."
The company that would become Winmark was born 25 years ago as Play It Again Sports, which sold used hockey sticks, baseball mitts, and so forth. Ten years later the company went public as Grow Biz. But by 2000, it was suffering the usual ills of overexpansion. Enter Morgan, who renamed it Winmark and focused on four franchises: Play It Again Sports, Once Upon A Child (kids' apparel), Music Go Round (used musical instruments), and Plato's Closet (which, like the other franchises, also sells some new items). Today, Winmark has 861 stores nationwide.
Franchisees pay a $20,000 one-time fee, plus 3% to 5% of weekly sales. In return, Winmark provides the business model, training, and marketing. "All the risk falls on the franchisee," says Graeme Rein, research analyst for Bares Capital Management, which owns 14% of the company. "It's on their shoulders to create a profit." Because franchisees pay cash on the spot, they have powerful bargaining leverage. For example, Cortese pays $6.80 for a pair of Hollister jeans and resells them for $18.
Since consumers are going to be hurting for a while, it's a fair bet that Winmark, whose stock has suffered this year along with the rest of the market, will continue to outperform the retail sector. Not that Morgan, who owns a quarter of the company, is standing pat. He's plowing Winmark profits into another franchise operation he expects to do well in hard times—leasing office equipment to credit-parched small businesses. And guess who he's recruiting to run the franchises: managers who've lost their jobs.
ZARA THRIVES BY BREAKING ALL THE RULES by Kerry Capell
ARTEIXO, SPAIN Many U.S. apparel retailers are choking on slow-moving inventories as consumers hold back on spending. But Spain's Inditex, whose Zara chain pioneered cheap chic, is zipping ahead. The $13.8 billion company, which is closing in on Gap for the title of world's biggest clothing retailer, has nearly quadrupled sales, profits, and locations since 2000. This year, Inditex plans to expand by up to 640 stores. "They will weather the storms better than most of their rivals," says Michael Lewis, a supply-management professor at University of Bath's School of Management.
Inditex's secret? Besides selling relatively cheap clothes, which fit the times, the company maintains an iron grip on every link in its supply chain. That enables it to move designs from sketch pad to store rack in as little as two weeks. This "fast fashion" way of doing things has become a model for other apparel chains, such as Los Angeles-based Forever 21, Spain's Mango, and Britain's Topshop, which is set to open in New York next year.
Inditex has spent more than three decades perfecting its strategy. Along the way it has broken almost every rule in retailing. At most clothing companies, the supply chain starts with designers, who plan collections as much as a year in advance. At Inditex, Zara store managers monitor what's selling daily—and with up to 70% of their salaries coming from commission, there's a lot of incentive to get it right. They track everything from current sales trends to merchandise customers want but can't find in stores, then shoot orders to Inditex's 300 designers, who fashion what's needed instantly.
Typically, apparel chains outsource the bulk of production to low-cost countries in Asia. Inditex produces half of its merchandise in factories in Spain, Portugal, and Morocco, keeping the manufacturing of the most fashionable items in-house while buying basics such as T-shirts from shops in Eastern Europe, Africa, and Asia. Wages are higher at Inditex—its factory workers in Spain make an average of $1,650 a month, vs. $206 in China's Guandong Province. But the company saves time and money on shipping. Also, Inditex's plants use just-in-time systems developed in cooperation with logistics experts from Toyota Motor, which gives the company a level of control that would be impossible if it were entirely dependent on outsiders.
In addition, Inditex supplies every market from warehouses in Spain. Even so, it manages to get new merchandise to European stores within 24 hours, and, by flying goods via commercial airliners, to stores in the Americas and Asia in 48 hours or less.
Air shipments cost more than transporting bulk packages on ocean freighters. But Inditex can afford them. The company produces smaller batches of clothing, adding an air of exclusivity that encourages customers to shop often. As a result, the chain doesn't have to slash prices by 50%, as rivals often do, to move mass quantities of out-of-season stock. Since the chain is more attuned to the most current looks, it also can get away with charging more than, say, Gap. "If you produce what the street is already wearing, you minimize fashion risk," notes José Luis Nueno, a marketing professor at IESE Business School in Barcelona.
For rivals hoping to mimic Inditex's results, analyst Luca Solca of Sanford C. Bernstein has a bit of advice: Don't follow the Zara pattern halfheartedly. "The Inditex way is an all-or-nothing proposition that has to be fully embraced to yield results."
READER COMMENTS:
Zara is a interesting case study. Together with Apple, they seem to be redefining the process of delivering consumer products. Both exercise tight control over process and are optimized to meet customer demands rather than mere supply side cost management. The freedom, store managers enjoy at Zara to get the stuff they expect their customers to pick up, and Apple stores that allow customers to walk-in and talk face to face with service people, reasserts that the "human" acting as the bridge between customer and company can still make a difference on customer experience and profits. -Ajay